Moss Wood Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2007 $55
It seems that the intoxicating allure of Pinot Noir knows no boundaries. Here we have Margaret River powerhouse, Moss Wood, journeying roughly 4000 kms to the other side of the country (Mornington Peninsula) to source fruit in order to sate their craving.
It is a big play, in a number of ways. First, Moss Wood have made a Pinot from estate plantings for many years. It's always a nice wine, but limited in ambition by the unsuitability of the variety to their region. Whether they are saying in making this move that they have stopped fighting the good fight for Margaret River Pinot isn't clear, but people will draw their own conclusions nonetheless.
Second, and perhaps more notable is the statement this makes about where Moss Wood are heading with their brand strategy. For an iconic brand that is so closely defined with a specific region, this is a big play. Does this dilute, or confuse the message that they present in the marketplace? Time will tell.
But this is a particularly nice wine. Very pure, very pinot. Elegant red cherries and strawberries, but not in such a simplistic form- there's some crunchy tannin and an edge of spice underneath it all, lending good persistence and authority. Under screw cap too this appears very youthful, and will certainly benefit from a year or two in bottle. It's the real deal. Winery Sample, 92 points, 2010+
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