On the Bench #10

Scarborough 'Green Label' Semillon 2009 $18

Bit of a quiet achiever, are Scarborough. Tucked away in the Hunter Valley, making little noise but lots of very good wine. This is a different take on the classically lean, tight Hunter Semillon style, with a slightly riper profile that lends more consumer friendly, tropical fruit orientated flavours. The drinkability factor is high- think of it as a Sauvignon Blanc for intellectuals. Winery Sample, 91 points, drink 2010+

On the Bench #8

Cape Mentelle 'Wallcliffe' Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2007 $40

I lost count of the number of times I heard Len Evans lament the 'cult of dimension' that had crept into the appreciation and assessment of Australian wine through the 90's and early noughties. Almost from the first time I heard him speak on wine, any wine, this was an abiding concern of his.

To be honest, I had no idea what he meant at the time. Well, an idea, but no real tasting experience to use as a barometer from which to base my own assessment. Wine was wine, and to be honest, the more juicy and concentrated the better as far as I was concerned.

Tastes change; in fashion, music, food, and wine. The wines I liked then are different to what I drink now. And I have no doubt that ten years ago, I would have thought that this wine was a waste of glass.

Fortunately, wine redemption is available to all. This is as good a 'Graves/White Bordeaux' style as you will find in Australia, and won't be shamed by anything varietally similar with a French label on it. The use of oak, and the integration of it, is basically perfect. It's there, but not intrusive, and the textural component that comes with the 'oaked white' territory adds interest and complexity. Best of all, there is a seamlessness and purity about this wine that sets it apart- it's dry, lean, savoury yet quenching, and the silken flow of it is magnificent.

This is a poster boy for what is possible in Australian wine- different, ambitious, imaginative, outside the box, elegant, packed to the gills with interest and excellence. Not wanting to put words in the old bloke's mouth, but I reckon Len would have loved it. Winery Sample, 95+ points, drink 2011+

Taste- New release whites- August 2009

Time to rip into some good Aussie juice...

Tin Soldier Semillon 2007 $15

I was interested to note that Tin Soldier is one brand under the banner of Swish Wine, a new company based in the Hunter Valley, who, amongst other things, has acquired Gartelmann Estate.

One of the more memorable ( and surprising) wines of the past few years was the Gartelmann Estate Semillon 2006. Surprising, because I hadn't heard much of them previously, and memorable because the wine was stunning.

So it is of some interest to see just what they are creating in place of the Gartelmann brand. Also interesting to note that this is a 2007 vintage release at a time when most of the 2009's are in the market.

For $15 though, this is a handy mouthful of wine. Warm year (2007) Hunter aromatics ( lemongrass, passionfruit) and a ripe, textured but varietally Semillon mouthfeel with citrus, passionfruit and herb flavours. Lots of fresh acidity but it's a tad friendlier and fruit driven than a lot of young Semillon's, which isn't a bad thing. 90 points, drink 2009+

Tin Soldier Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $15

Slightly sweaty at first, with grass and capsicum aroma's. Good energy and zip across the palate, fresh and vital with citrus and tropical fruit flavours. Plenty of flavour here- no complaints about the value for money either. 90 points, drink 2009+

Next of Kin Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $17

New label from Xanadu Wines in Margaret River. Spunky Marg River Sem/Sauv aromatics, all grassy and full of lifted green. Punchy green spice on the front palate, a little broad through the middle, passionfruit, capsicum, citrus and herb on the aftertaste. 87 points, drink 2009+