Tom Ramsey's Final Interview

Tom Ramsey was one of the world's most renowned golf journalists. Fearless, often abrasive, combative- all descriptors fit the man who covered more than 140 majors for News Limited.

On ONE HD's Pro Shop show in 2010 I interviewed Ramsey at his home in Australia. It was the last that he recorded prior to his passing this year.

On the Bench #9

Frankland Estate 'Isolation Ridge' Shiraz 2007 $35

If there is any justice in the world (there isn't, I know) then brands from off the beaten track who have stuck to their style guns through the last 15 years and produced regionally specific, authentic, personality driven wines will find their moment in the sun in the near future.

That may be wishful thinking, but labels like Frankland Estate fit that bill to a tee. Cool climate operators struggled for attention when size was king, but there was never any question about the quality of the wines that this Great Southern producer turned out.

And if anything, they're just getting better. You could smell the nose on this all day- pepper, florals, spice rack, rocks and black cherries. Relaxed but powerful in the mouth, lots of deep black flavours but without any heaviness and spicy persistence. Grainy, imperfect tannins in keeping with the rustic personality of the wine. And you just keep reaching for another glass. Winery Sample, 94+ points, drink 2011+

On the Bench #8

Cape Mentelle 'Wallcliffe' Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2007 $40

I lost count of the number of times I heard Len Evans lament the 'cult of dimension' that had crept into the appreciation and assessment of Australian wine through the 90's and early noughties. Almost from the first time I heard him speak on wine, any wine, this was an abiding concern of his.

To be honest, I had no idea what he meant at the time. Well, an idea, but no real tasting experience to use as a barometer from which to base my own assessment. Wine was wine, and to be honest, the more juicy and concentrated the better as far as I was concerned.

Tastes change; in fashion, music, food, and wine. The wines I liked then are different to what I drink now. And I have no doubt that ten years ago, I would have thought that this wine was a waste of glass.

Fortunately, wine redemption is available to all. This is as good a 'Graves/White Bordeaux' style as you will find in Australia, and won't be shamed by anything varietally similar with a French label on it. The use of oak, and the integration of it, is basically perfect. It's there, but not intrusive, and the textural component that comes with the 'oaked white' territory adds interest and complexity. Best of all, there is a seamlessness and purity about this wine that sets it apart- it's dry, lean, savoury yet quenching, and the silken flow of it is magnificent.

This is a poster boy for what is possible in Australian wine- different, ambitious, imaginative, outside the box, elegant, packed to the gills with interest and excellence. Not wanting to put words in the old bloke's mouth, but I reckon Len would have loved it. Winery Sample, 95+ points, drink 2011+

Redhouse Wines

Altier Pinot Grigio 2009 $22

Made from Adelaide Hills fruit. Clean, fresh nose with typical Grigio pear and musk-like aroma's. Fresh and dried pear flavours, faint hint of spice; textured mouthfeel. Winery Sample, 87 points, Drink 2009+

Mediterrane' Shiraz/Sangiovese/Tempranillo 2008 $22

This blend of varieties really works a treat. Lots of ripe fruit, but quite layered with some herby tartness lifting the finish. Nice grip and keeps you interested. Savoury, food friendly and ready to drink. Winery Sample, 90 points, drink 2010+

On the Bench #7

Domaine Chandon Shiraz (Barrel Selection) 2006 $49

Bringing the funk back. Found this in the bottom of a pile and glad to have done so. Stemmy, cool climate nose-aniseed, ash, green peppercorns, cherries and plums. Spicy, pepper/cherry flavours, mid weight (for Shiraz) still juvenile and punchy fresh. Wild, interesting and attention grabbing. Winery Sample, 93 points, 2011+

On the Bench #5

The tragic death of Trevor Drayton in the Drayton winery explosion of 2008 is one of the worst stories in Australian wine of recent times. From all reports Trevor was a terrific bloke and a passionate winemaker. He left a lot of friends behind.

The other story that came out of this disaster was that of assistant winemaker William Rikard-Bell, horribly burned and in a critical condition, running into a nearby dam and being found there by rescuers before being rushed to hospital.

Rikard-Bell is now the winemaker for Draytons, having recovered from his injuries. It's a great story and he's obviously a talented winemaker, because this is a seriously good wine.

Draytons 'Vineyard Selection' Chardonnay 2009 $20

Some pear, a touch of pineapple, some citrus-like flavours as well. Textured palate but decidedly fresh, with a touch of spice adding interest. Excellent carry and length. Best of all, it makes for great drinking and keeps you coming back for more. Winery Sample, 93 points, drink 2009+

On the Bench #4

Stanton and Killeen Vintage Port 2004 $29

Can't believe how little fortified wine I drink these days, and every time I take the opportunity I'm reminded what I've been missing out on. This is a speccy wine, released with five years bottle age and up for grabs for less than $30. We don't know how good we've got it down under when it comes to world class fortified's.

Silky, refined and delicious. The alcohol is beautifully integrated, and the weightlessness of the wine belies the fortification, which I imagine is exactly the goal in the first place. Despite the bottle age this is still extremely youthful, with a rawness of sweet prune and black plum flavour that still needs some restful years to find its equilibrium. It's a long term, classically structured Vintage Port, and worthy of a place in anyone's cellar. Winery Sample, 94+ points, 2015+

On the Bench #3

Brokenwood 'Forest Edge Vineyard' Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $25

Much gnashing of teeth lately about the foothold that NZ Sauvignon has in the Australian market. Of the top ten Sauvignon Blanc's sold by volume, how many would you think are from NZ? Try ten.

So as a nation we're remarkably switched on to the East Island when it comes to savvy. We also allow the Kiwi's to claim back the WET tax (29%) on all sales here, so it is a win/win, or maybe win/win/win/win which goes some way to explaining their impressive marketing spend and subsequent market dominance.

Nonetheless, we do a pretty good version of the style in various cooler climate areas, like Orange in Central NSW, where Brokenwood source the fruit for this wine from. In fact this is better than pretty good, with fresh and lively passionfruit, citrus and nettle flavours and aroma's. It's not too 'green' in nature and whilst the front palate explosiveness of Sauvignon is there it doesn't wither away to nothingness in a hurry like some of its brethren. Winery Sample, 92 points, drink 2009+

On the Bench #2

Fox Gordon 'Princess' Fiano 2009 $20

The alternative variety movement in Australia is well and truly on the march, with all sorts of rare and obscure varietals poking their heads above the parapet. Fox Gordon are just one of the many who are staking a claim for a piece of turf on the new frontier, and they're making a good fist of it, too.

It has a great combination of fruit flavour and savouriness. Pears and almonds come straight to mind as flavour cues, but it's the slightly pithy, nutty, almost chewy/dried pear nature of the finish that grabs the attention. Made for food, with a fresh sweep of acidity cleaning up the tail. Seriously well made wine here - the rating, whilst more or less capturing the merits of the wine, doesn't quite do justice to the enjoyability factor. 91 points, 2009+

On the Bench #1

Brokenwood 'Indigo Vineyard' Viognier 2008 $28

The Indigo Vineyard is located in the cool Beechworth region of Victoria, where a number of producer's (Castagna, Savaterre and Giaconda, amongst others) are making some seriously good wines.

This is pretty darn smart too. Spicy, with freshness of flavour in the peach/pear spectrum. Ripe phenolics but no oily texture. Plenty of energy and life. Hitting the bullseye with Viognier is no mean feat but Brokenwood get a little closer every year. 91 points, drink 2009+

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2009 $30

A different beast this year. The last two releases (07 & 08) have been more up front in their attraction, at least to my memory (as I have ditched all tasting notes).

This is a gentler, more restrained version of the Hanlin Hill. That said, it is completely seamless, the even flow of the lime and citrus flavours showing no deviation, and defined by delicacy. Less immediate impact than 07 and 08, especially through the middle, but a latent mineral feel kicks in and keeps the flavour lingering. Lovely wine, but difficult to rate, more so if you're familiar with the last few vintages. A 'classical' style? A sleeper? Time will tell. 93+ points, drink 2009+

Best's Great Western Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 $25

Opens with a good whiff of mintiness, true to varietal/regional tendencies. This abates quite noticeably on the second day, suggesting a good decant is the go. On the more restrained side of Central Victorian Cabernet, with youthful black/ red currant flavours, fine tannins, and nicely balanced oak and alcohol in the background. There's a slight rawness about this, but it's really well put together and three days after opening is still rocking along nicely. Give it a couple of years. Nice wine. 89+ points, 2011+

Various

A lot of wine to taste at the moment. Here's an attempt to put a dent in the pile,

Best's Great Western Riesling 2009 $22

It is always a pretty good sign of how a winery is travelling when their sample mail out includes 2008 reds and 2009 whites, and the year is 2009. Demand is obviously strong, which comes as no surprise with regard to Best's, one of the great Australian wine names.

This is delicious. Zesty and with plenty of zip. Flowers,lemons,citrus and a river pebble/stoniness on the nose and palate as it starts to open up on the second day. Acidity is assertive, but it should be at this age, and with salt and pepper squid this was really singing. Will age, but this is bloody hard to resist right now, especially with food. 92 points, 2009+

Jip Jip Rocks Unwooded Chardonnay 2009 $18

Nicely put together. Citrus, honeydew and pear skin aroma's. Mid weight Chardonnay texture in the mouth, with citrus and green melon flavours. Gentle finish. 87 points, 2009+

David Hook Hunter Valley Barbera 2007 $25

The Italian varietal Barbera looks to have a future in the Hunter Valley. There are some nice examples starting to pop up, Margan is one that comes immediately to mind, and this wine from David Hook also looks the goods.

There's some regional earthiness here on the nose and palate which is particularly attractive, and complements the naturally medium bodied nature of the grape. Some sweet/sour elements too, which taste better than they sound and are part of the overall interest of the wine. Slightly tangy red and sour cherry flavours, if you are looking for a specific chracter- another year in bottle will serve it well, then drink it over the following five. 90 points, 2010+