Wachau, Austr(al)ia

Salomon is one of the great names of Austrian wine, producing some of that countries best Rieslings and Gruner Veltliner's. They've also set up shop in Finniss River (35 kms south of Adelaide) ,South Australia, producing a range of interesting reds that contrast with their white dominated Austrian portfolio.

Salomon Estate Fleurieu Peninsula Shiraz Viognier 2007 $30

The viognier component is handled really well- just a dusty, floral lift in evidence rather than anything sticky or stonefruit orientated. A little volatility, some dark toasty oak and dense black fruits as well on the nose. Dark plum and pepper flavours, good impact, tight acidity and drying tannin finish. Winery Sample, 88 points, 2011+

On the Bench #1

Brokenwood 'Indigo Vineyard' Viognier 2008 $28

The Indigo Vineyard is located in the cool Beechworth region of Victoria, where a number of producer's (Castagna, Savaterre and Giaconda, amongst others) are making some seriously good wines.

This is pretty darn smart too. Spicy, with freshness of flavour in the peach/pear spectrum. Ripe phenolics but no oily texture. Plenty of energy and life. Hitting the bullseye with Viognier is no mean feat but Brokenwood get a little closer every year. 91 points, drink 2009+

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2009 $30

A different beast this year. The last two releases (07 & 08) have been more up front in their attraction, at least to my memory (as I have ditched all tasting notes).

This is a gentler, more restrained version of the Hanlin Hill. That said, it is completely seamless, the even flow of the lime and citrus flavours showing no deviation, and defined by delicacy. Less immediate impact than 07 and 08, especially through the middle, but a latent mineral feel kicks in and keeps the flavour lingering. Lovely wine, but difficult to rate, more so if you're familiar with the last few vintages. A 'classical' style? A sleeper? Time will tell. 93+ points, drink 2009+

Best's Great Western Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 $25

Opens with a good whiff of mintiness, true to varietal/regional tendencies. This abates quite noticeably on the second day, suggesting a good decant is the go. On the more restrained side of Central Victorian Cabernet, with youthful black/ red currant flavours, fine tannins, and nicely balanced oak and alcohol in the background. There's a slight rawness about this, but it's really well put together and three days after opening is still rocking along nicely. Give it a couple of years. Nice wine. 89+ points, 2011+

Top Shelf Riesling

Frankland Estate 'Smith Cullam' Riesling 2008 $35

The packaging of Australian wine has come a long way over the last ten years. Obviously there a lot more designers in the game now, but the style, sophistication and creativity of what is appearing in the market has taken a quantum leap. Exhibit A, the Smith Cullam range from Frankland Estate.

This exquisite wine deserves a beautiful label. Made in a kabinett (Germanic) style with some residual sugar and low-ish (11%) alcohol, it delivers a stunning array of pristine riesling aromatics and flavours, with flowers, limes, stones and minerals flooding the senses. The weight and power of the wine are totally at odds with each other- light and floating in the mouth, but forceful and with serious length and persistence. It's a benchmark for the style in Australia. 95 points, drink 2010+