On the Bench #9

Frankland Estate 'Isolation Ridge' Shiraz 2007 $35

If there is any justice in the world (there isn't, I know) then brands from off the beaten track who have stuck to their style guns through the last 15 years and produced regionally specific, authentic, personality driven wines will find their moment in the sun in the near future.

That may be wishful thinking, but labels like Frankland Estate fit that bill to a tee. Cool climate operators struggled for attention when size was king, but there was never any question about the quality of the wines that this Great Southern producer turned out.

And if anything, they're just getting better. You could smell the nose on this all day- pepper, florals, spice rack, rocks and black cherries. Relaxed but powerful in the mouth, lots of deep black flavours but without any heaviness and spicy persistence. Grainy, imperfect tannins in keeping with the rustic personality of the wine. And you just keep reaching for another glass. Winery Sample, 94+ points, drink 2011+

Top Shelf Riesling

Frankland Estate 'Smith Cullam' Riesling 2008 $35

The packaging of Australian wine has come a long way over the last ten years. Obviously there a lot more designers in the game now, but the style, sophistication and creativity of what is appearing in the market has taken a quantum leap. Exhibit A, the Smith Cullam range from Frankland Estate.

This exquisite wine deserves a beautiful label. Made in a kabinett (Germanic) style with some residual sugar and low-ish (11%) alcohol, it delivers a stunning array of pristine riesling aromatics and flavours, with flowers, limes, stones and minerals flooding the senses. The weight and power of the wine are totally at odds with each other- light and floating in the mouth, but forceful and with serious length and persistence. It's a benchmark for the style in Australia. 95 points, drink 2010+