On the Bench #9

Frankland Estate 'Isolation Ridge' Shiraz 2007 $35

If there is any justice in the world (there isn't, I know) then brands from off the beaten track who have stuck to their style guns through the last 15 years and produced regionally specific, authentic, personality driven wines will find their moment in the sun in the near future.

That may be wishful thinking, but labels like Frankland Estate fit that bill to a tee. Cool climate operators struggled for attention when size was king, but there was never any question about the quality of the wines that this Great Southern producer turned out.

And if anything, they're just getting better. You could smell the nose on this all day- pepper, florals, spice rack, rocks and black cherries. Relaxed but powerful in the mouth, lots of deep black flavours but without any heaviness and spicy persistence. Grainy, imperfect tannins in keeping with the rustic personality of the wine. And you just keep reaching for another glass. Winery Sample, 94+ points, drink 2011+

On the Bench #7

Domaine Chandon Shiraz (Barrel Selection) 2006 $49

Bringing the funk back. Found this in the bottom of a pile and glad to have done so. Stemmy, cool climate nose-aniseed, ash, green peppercorns, cherries and plums. Spicy, pepper/cherry flavours, mid weight (for Shiraz) still juvenile and punchy fresh. Wild, interesting and attention grabbing. Winery Sample, 93 points, 2011+

La Chapelle

The Jaboulet table at the Ficofi/Kaesler tasting. The late 1990's vintages of La Chappelle ( at least the ones that I have tried, 98 in particular) have been fairly forgettable. I quite liked the 1991, drinking well, not an acclaimed vintage but sometimes drinkability is an under-rated quality. No notes on this table, the speed tasting had started to slip into overdrive.