On the Bench #2

Fox Gordon 'Princess' Fiano 2009 $20

The alternative variety movement in Australia is well and truly on the march, with all sorts of rare and obscure varietals poking their heads above the parapet. Fox Gordon are just one of the many who are staking a claim for a piece of turf on the new frontier, and they're making a good fist of it, too.

It has a great combination of fruit flavour and savouriness. Pears and almonds come straight to mind as flavour cues, but it's the slightly pithy, nutty, almost chewy/dried pear nature of the finish that grabs the attention. Made for food, with a fresh sweep of acidity cleaning up the tail. Seriously well made wine here - the rating, whilst more or less capturing the merits of the wine, doesn't quite do justice to the enjoyability factor. 91 points, 2009+