Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Redhouse Wines
Made from Adelaide Hills fruit. Clean, fresh nose with typical Grigio pear and musk-like aroma's. Fresh and dried pear flavours, faint hint of spice; textured mouthfeel. Winery Sample, 87 points, Drink 2009+
Mediterrane' Shiraz/Sangiovese/Tempranillo 2008 $22
This blend of varieties really works a treat. Lots of ripe fruit, but quite layered with some herby tartness lifting the finish. Nice grip and keeps you interested. Savoury, food friendly and ready to drink. Winery Sample, 90 points, drink 2010+
Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Wachau, Austr(al)ia
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Thought of the Week
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Time for a X-mas break
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Becasse
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
In the Groove
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Round One- PGA Championship
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
Australian PGA Championship 2009-Coolum
Wednesday, December 2, 2009
Australian Open 2009- Getting Ready
Monday, November 30, 2009
Player of the Year 2009
Friday, November 27, 2009
Australian Open Preview
Thursday, November 19, 2009
The Next Level
Saturday, November 14, 2009
On the Bench #7
Friday, November 6, 2009
On the Bench #6
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Nothing to see here
This has always been the great contradiction for me- a crisis caused by debt has been miraculously solved by going into more debt? I don't think so. He continues,
"There has been precious little done to address the systemic problems revealed by the crisis, and as Professor Elizabeth Warren, chair of the oversight committee investigating what happened to America’s bail-out money, told us, "we’re now in a permanent hostage situation". The surviving global financial institutions are in control and out of control at the same time, too big to fail and too powerful to be restrained."
Or expressed in another way, the lunatics are now running the asylum. This too makes a pertinent point,
"We’ve hit our ecological limits and the old growth-economy mantra will no longer work. Yet I think we are also missing another, even more important message from the GFC -- it reveals a shortage of ideas. Government's around the world spend a tiny proportion of their time or money planning, yet this is where the majority of us will be living most of our lives."
It sounds like a show worth watching. Addicted to Money, Thursday, 8-30pm
Saturday, October 31, 2009
Ye Olde Claret Jug
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
A Legendary Gentleman
Thursday, October 22, 2009
On the Bench #5
The other story that came out of this disaster was that of assistant winemaker William Rikard-Bell, horribly burned and in a critical condition, running into a nearby dam and being found there by rescuers before being rushed to hospital.
Rikard-Bell is now the winemaker for Draytons, having recovered from his injuries. It's a great story and he's obviously a talented winemaker, because this is a seriously good wine.
Draytons 'Vineyard Selection' Chardonnay 2009 $20
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
On the Bench #4
On the Bench #3
Monday, October 19, 2009
When Norman ruled the World
Thursday, October 15, 2009
On the Bench #2
Fox Gordon 'Princess' Fiano 2009 $20
The alternative variety movement in Australia is well and truly on the march, with all sorts of rare and obscure varietals poking their heads above the parapet. Fox Gordon are just one of the many who are staking a claim for a piece of turf on the new frontier, and they're making a good fist of it, too.
It has a great combination of fruit flavour and savouriness. Pears and almonds come straight to mind as flavour cues, but it's the slightly pithy, nutty, almost chewy/dried pear nature of the finish that grabs the attention. Made for food, with a fresh sweep of acidity cleaning up the tail. Seriously well made wine here - the rating, whilst more or less capturing the merits of the wine, doesn't quite do justice to the enjoyability factor. 91 points, 2009+
Thursday, October 8, 2009
On the Bench #1
A different beast this year. The last two releases (07 & 08) have been more up front in their attraction, at least to my memory (as I have ditched all tasting notes).
This is a gentler, more restrained version of the Hanlin Hill. That said, it is completely seamless, the even flow of the lime and citrus flavours showing no deviation, and defined by delicacy. Less immediate impact than 07 and 08, especially through the middle, but a latent mineral feel kicks in and keeps the flavour lingering. Lovely wine, but difficult to rate, more so if you're familiar with the last few vintages. A 'classical' style? A sleeper? Time will tell. 93+ points, drink 2009+
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Various
Best's Great Western Riesling 2009 $22
It is always a pretty good sign of how a winery is travelling when their sample mail out includes 2008 reds and 2009 whites, and the year is 2009. Demand is obviously strong, which comes as no surprise with regard to Best's, one of the great Australian wine names.
This is delicious. Zesty and with plenty of zip. Flowers,lemons,citrus and a river pebble/stoniness on the nose and palate as it starts to open up on the second day. Acidity is assertive, but it should be at this age, and with salt and pepper squid this was really singing. Will age, but this is bloody hard to resist right now, especially with food. 92 points, 2009+
Jip Jip Rocks Unwooded Chardonnay 2009 $18
Nicely put together. Citrus, honeydew and pear skin aroma's. Mid weight Chardonnay texture in the mouth, with citrus and green melon flavours. Gentle finish. 87 points, 2009+
David Hook Hunter Valley Barbera 2007 $25
The Italian varietal Barbera looks to have a future in the Hunter Valley. There are some nice examples starting to pop up, Margan is one that comes immediately to mind, and this wine from David Hook also looks the goods.
There's some regional earthiness here on the nose and palate which is particularly attractive, and complements the naturally medium bodied nature of the grape. Some sweet/sour elements too, which taste better than they sound and are part of the overall interest of the wine. Slightly tangy red and sour cherry flavours, if you are looking for a specific chracter- another year in bottle will serve it well, then drink it over the following five. 90 points, 2010+
Thursday, October 1, 2009
Vasse Felix 'Heytesbury' Chardonnay 2007- $40
I tasted this wine over a three hour period, wondering if any holes would appear in its story. It simply appeared too good to be true at first, almost too proper and perfectly behaved. The only thing that happened though was that it improved, and if anything became even more seamless. I guess if you had to describe it you would say that it smells and tastes of grapefruit, matchstick, white peaches, youthful creamy oak and toasted nuts. But it's more than that- it screams 'fine wine', the texture of it at once silken and caressing but with a kick of persistent, intense length in the tail. There's a fair amount of winemaking influence here but it is all wound into the wine beautifully. 96 points- drink 2011+
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
The Pro Shop
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Long Haul Lit- Breath
Funny, you never think much about breathing, until it's all you think about
I can't remember the last time I bought a paperback and sat down for a good, solid read. For the last couple of years, it just seems to be an indulgence that I simply struggled to find time for.
But with the contemplation of a full day of travel to get from the Gold Coast to Cape Town, I grabbed a copy of Tim Winton's 'Breath' and set about knocking it over during the flight.
First, I must say that it is good for the soul and mind to lose yourself in a great book every now and again. I had forgotten about the sense of freedom and possibility that evolves when you transport yourself mentally into the virtual world of a skilled writer.
After finishing the book, my mind slipped back to a conversation I once had with a late writer of note. He bought up A.B. Facey's classic novel, 'A Fortunate Life', as an example of how greatness can be found in brevity of expression.
Facey was self educated. His auto-biographical novel is a timeless example of how honesty, and simplicity of language, can translate into something greater than the sum of their parts. It is a wonderful piece of writing in all respects, and there is something in this work that makes me think of Winton.
Winton's great weapon is honesty. His writing speaks of ordinary people living ordinary lives. He doesn't regress into fairy tale endings or feel compelled to find resolution in every conflict. Winton's words express the mundanity of the everyday but contrast it with the universality of spirit and hope, usually repressed by circumstance.
There seems a simplicity to Winton's prose too, but such an impression is ultimately superficial. He ignores the self indulgence prone of writers looking to legitimise themselves to the cognoscenti, and appears to be at a stage of his career where he writes for himself rather than the plaudits of critics and fans.
In this way, the reflections of Pikelet, the 14 year old protagonist of 'Breath' stay true to character and possibility. Somehow though, Pikelets narrative is anything but childish, and despite his age he's not spared from the responsibility of recognising the relationship between action and consequence, a key theme throughout the text.
'Breath' is a wonderful piece of writing, a great read on a number of levels and a seminal piece of Australian fiction that will be talked about for decades to come.
Thursday, September 17, 2009
The Exchange
Monday, September 14, 2009
Long Haul Cinema- Take Two
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Haskell Vineyards scoops the pool at Tri-Nations
Thursday, September 10, 2009
A Postcard from Stellenbosch
Living with the (Sporting) Enemy
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Coche Dury, Chevalier Montrachet and more
Monday, September 7, 2009
Three Years Hence
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Lanson NV
La Chapelle
Saturday, September 5, 2009
Leroy Gevrey Chambertin 1967
Friday, September 4, 2009
Montrachet
Thursday, September 3, 2009
Tour Tales and True- September
La,La,La-La...Laaaa
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
A Swill Fest for Oligarch's
Monday, August 31, 2009
Barossa Wine Traveller Launch
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Barossa Wine Traveller
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Stellar Aussie Chardonnay
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
Shiraz and Regionality
It's a good one too. The idea that Australia is one big, homogenous, vinous blob is absurd in the extreme but nonetheless it is a theory being perpetuated by a few detractors in the global market. One way to change that perception is to show how regionality manifests itself in the final product.
Whether there are enough people out there to whom this point of difference matters is another question altogether. The industry, and those around it who are passionate about wine, always tend to overestimate the level of interest that the average wine drinker has in learning more about wine. For most, it's a drink; an alcoholic beverage.
There are two questions which are primarily asked by the unengaged wine drinker; 'What does it cost?', and ' Is it any good?' To further demonstrate how far we have to go before regionality is a relevant component of the buying process for the majority of consumers, examine the fact that in the Netherlands, a significant emerging market, 94% of bottled wine sold sells for under 6 euros a unit. It simply isn't possible to make a regionally specific, varietally distinctive wine in Australia at quality orientated yields and to get it to retail in an overseas market at this price.
But that's where the market is at the moment, whether we like it or not. We may have unique, individual wines that speak of their origins right across the 60+ growing regions of Australia, but we also need a heck of a lot of people to start trading up as well if we want to sell them at prices where everyone makes a dollar. Patently, there is some work to do.
Nonetheless, and to sate my own curiosity, I thought I'd take a look at a range of Shiraz from five different Australian wine growing regions to refresh my own thoughts on the notion of regionality,
Warramate (White Label) Shiraz 2007 $42 (Yarra Valley, Victoria)
From 37 year old vines grown in the Yarra Valley. Quite an elegant, refined Shiraz. You'd pick the cool climate origins- the pepper, spice and dark cherry elements dropping a hint, and then the savoury, medium weight palate and low-ish alcohol confirming first impressions. Lovely line and length here and delicate tannins, not a bruiser but it is a wine you keep coming back to for another glass. (And like most good wines, it is even more impressive on the second day, filling out and becoming more complex) 93 points, 2011+
Picardy Shiraz 2007 $25 (Pemberton, WA)
The nose on this wine, year after year, always challenges. Smoky, meaty, peppery, spicy, showing a little reduced, becoming more floral and clovey with air. Yet again though, the flavours of this wine are bright and delicious, with lingering red cherry and red plum flavours that have some meaty, savoury complexity in the background. It is a versatile, interesting, and quite elegant Shiraz that drinks beautifully now but will age over the medium term. Another top wine from Picardy. 93 points, 2009+
Torzi Matthews Schist Rock Shiraz 2008 $17 (Eden Valley, SA)
There is a great honesty about the Torzi Matthews wines- they're packed with flavour but not contrived, and always excellent value for money. There's some Eden Valley floral perfume here, and lots of rich, luscious, dark fruit with chocolate and spice overtones. At the price, it's a bargain. 90 points, 2009+
Pepperjack Barossa Shiraz 2008 $24 (Barossa Valley, SA)
There are some truly delicious, flavour packed wines from the 2008 Barossa vintage. It was a vintage in two parts- before heat wave, and after. Just about everyone seems to be saying that they picked before the heatwave. The proof in 2008 will be in the prune pudding.
The aesthetes amongst us would probably ascribe a degree of 'dead' fruit to this wine. Certainly, it is very ripe, lush and concentrated. That said, I reckon a majority of consumers would find it intoxicating because of this very point. Meat and poison, as they say. Blackberries, prunes- sweet and rich, but the wine doesn't show overt alcohol and despite the fruit sweetness finishes dry and spicy. 89 points, drink 2009+
Mitchelton Shiraz 2007 $20 (Nagambie, Victoria)
2007 was a difficult vintage in most of South East Australia. Parts of Victoria (and Coonawarra) got smashed with frost, and then later by heat. Yields were very low, especially in the Pyrenees, Great Western, and Nagambie, where Mitchelton are based.
Rich colours, with typical regional spice and dark fruits on the nose. The troubled year though shows through on the palate, the dark cherry and plum flavours hitting a wall of drying, slightly stressed tannins. It works quite nicely with food at this stage, but might be a better early drinking option than a cellaring proposition. 88 points, 2009+
Saturday, August 15, 2009
Top Shelf Riesling
The packaging of Australian wine has come a long way over the last ten years. Obviously there a lot more designers in the game now, but the style, sophistication and creativity of what is appearing in the market has taken a quantum leap. Exhibit A, the Smith Cullam range from Frankland Estate.
This exquisite wine deserves a beautiful label. Made in a kabinett (Germanic) style with some residual sugar and low-ish (11%) alcohol, it delivers a stunning array of pristine riesling aromatics and flavours, with flowers, limes, stones and minerals flooding the senses. The weight and power of the wine are totally at odds with each other- light and floating in the mouth, but forceful and with serious length and persistence. It's a benchmark for the style in Australia. 95 points, drink 2010+
Thursday, August 13, 2009
Taste- New release whites- August 2009
Tin Soldier Semillon 2007 $15
I was interested to note that Tin Soldier is one brand under the banner of Swish Wine, a new company based in the Hunter Valley, who, amongst other things, has acquired Gartelmann Estate.
One of the more memorable ( and surprising) wines of the past few years was the Gartelmann Estate Semillon 2006. Surprising, because I hadn't heard much of them previously, and memorable because the wine was stunning.
So it is of some interest to see just what they are creating in place of the Gartelmann brand. Also interesting to note that this is a 2007 vintage release at a time when most of the 2009's are in the market.
For $15 though, this is a handy mouthful of wine. Warm year (2007) Hunter aromatics ( lemongrass, passionfruit) and a ripe, textured but varietally Semillon mouthfeel with citrus, passionfruit and herb flavours. Lots of fresh acidity but it's a tad friendlier and fruit driven than a lot of young Semillon's, which isn't a bad thing. 90 points, drink 2009+
Tin Soldier Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2008 $15
Slightly sweaty at first, with grass and capsicum aroma's. Good energy and zip across the palate, fresh and vital with citrus and tropical fruit flavours. Plenty of flavour here- no complaints about the value for money either. 90 points, drink 2009+
Next of Kin Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc 2009 $17
New label from Xanadu Wines in Margaret River. Spunky Marg River Sem/Sauv aromatics, all grassy and full of lifted green. Punchy green spice on the front palate, a little broad through the middle, passionfruit, capsicum, citrus and herb on the aftertaste. 87 points, drink 2009+
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Long Haul Cinema
On my recent flight from Johannesburg to Sydney I watched two quite different films.
Disgrace
The brilliant novel by JM Coetzee has unfortunately failed to translate to the big screen. Despite John Malcovich's best efforts, his characterisation of a philandering, conflicted University lecturer gets lost somewhere in the screenplay rewrite. There is no real explanation of how or why he arrives at the decision to sleep with prostitutes and students, and the shallowness of his character doesn't allow us to empathise or judge him for his actions.
Add to this the fact that the Australian based production used mainly Australian actors whose fey South African accents dropped in and out of dialogue at regular intervals and you have a movie which was hard going. I couldn't see it through to the end. Poor script, stolid acting and a good idea gone wrong.
Tyson
On the other hand, this was one of the more rivetting documentaries I've seen in some time. A mesmerising portrait of one of the most controversial athletes of the last century, Tyson is a warts and all auto-biographical doco of the former heavy weight boxing champion, Mike Tyson.
There has always been a sense of tragedy about Tyson, a poor kid/wrong side of the tracks/made good/gone bad /story for the ages. The tragedy is tangible, but unexpectedly Tyson's brutal honesty and unguarded dialogue throughout the film offers an insight into a more complex, albeit conflicted, thinker.
Where we expect brutality, we often get philosophy. There's brutality in spades, no question, and Tyson's brand of philosophy isn't going to be mistaken for Descartes, but through it we end up finding a man who is acutely aware of his own failings.
In the main, he isn't apologetic for them. The fact that Tyson once experienced the power that came with being the world's most feared and famous athlete means that some of the "ultimate alpha male" residue still exists.
He doesn't resile from his past, nor sugar coat his misdemeanors (other than denying that he was guilty of the rape charge that put him in prison for three years).
Guilty or not, the complex juxtaposition of candidness, repressed anger and emotional pain laid bare makes this film enthralling viewing. "Tyson" is highly recommended.
Monday, July 27, 2009
Bang for your Buck in Cape Town
Sunday, July 26, 2009
New Home for The Wining Pro
So, I'll gradually be shifting some material over to this blog in the next few weeks, and in a couple of months the old site will be shut down.
As for what will be here...mainly tasting notes of samples that get sent, some travel posts when I'm on the road, the occasional article that I write on golf for Golf Digest...that sort of stuff. All the best.